Wine Predictions, 2013: Part Two

The following column needs to be taken seriously.  It was channeled via ‘psychography’, wherein the author falls into a trance-like state and is then possessed by some disembodied external force which composes a written prognostication without the subject’s conscious awareness. 

The ‘nominal’ author, Christian Kassel, was given an extensive polygraph examination afterward, and the only question that drew an ‘inconclusive’ was when he was asked if the machine was actually plugged in.

* Note that before the autowriting began, Kassel had already typed the dateline as Dec. 31, 2012…  As you can see, it was modified to ‘2013’ by whatever otherworldy haruspex had seized control of his phalanges, his soul and his personal computer.

Dec. 31st, 2013:  The Wine Year In Review

I think we can all agree that the global vortex that spun the Planet of Plonk out of control and led to the downfall of the Obama administration can trace its origins to January 22, 2013—the day after the President’s second inauguration.

Malia, in a world where everyone is Aryan.

Malia, in a world where everyone is Aryan.

On that day, the First Family’s 14-year-old-daughter Malia was diagnosed with an extremely rare form of acne known as nodulocystic papuphilia, a skin disorder that impairs the body’s ability to coagulate pus.

So physically disgusting—and psychologically devastating—is this disease that teenagers are frequently placed in state-run sensory-deprivation chambers throughout the duration of puberty.

The Obamas opted to keep Malia at home, where, unfortunately, her condition deteriorated, and the President, with his international schedule, was forced to divide his time between her bedside and les affairs d’estat.

It was during this time that Michelle Obama grew increasingly desperate and Malia slipped into that mental state that our forefathers called ‘melancholia dramatica queenatosis’.

Meanwhile, as virtually every enophile on the planet knows, the 2nd term restructuring of the White House staff saw the dismissal of former State Dinner sommelier ‘Screwcap’ McKlittery and the instatement of the charismatic, Russian-born whizkid Grigori Schlongolov Jizmekuntovskovich, MS, MW, who was hailed throughout his native Siberia as a wine scholar, a wine whisperer, a wine mystic, a monk-confessor and occult healer.

George Wallace making a physical demonstration of his IQ.

George Wallace making a physical demonstration of his IQ.

Somewhat disheveled, bug-eyed and frenetic-looking, Jizmekuntovskovich could not have been a bigger contrast to his meticulous, prissy, homosexual predecessor.  Among the most telling differences was the McKlittery had earned his nickname by his vocal advocacy of the new generation of wine closures, whereas the mussed-up Marxist mystic maintained munificently, like George Wallace discussing  segregation, “Corks today, corks tomorrow, corks… fo’evah!!”

He had not been on duty three days when, having heard of Malia’s infirmity, he presented the First Lady with a traditional acne remedy from his hometown of Vulvavsk-Gleetskaya:  Prikji Klapzú, a concentrated late-harvested Siberian dessert wine made from frozen Dykkälä Twatska grapes fortified with distilled yak milk and otherwise used only for pompous Kremlin gala dinners and to help preserve the corpse of Vladimir Lenin.

Jizmekuntovskovich applied the viscous vino to Malia’s zit-ravaged mug and within minutes, the seeping, evil-smelling rash began to clear up, and within an hour, her complexion was cleaner than a Vienna choirboy’s tighty-whities.

Thus, almost instantaneously, despite his dirty hair and Charlie Manson glare, the Soviet sommelier ingratiated himself into the inner circle of Michelle and Barack Obama. It is speculated that he may have tapped into the sort of ‘collective unconscious’ about which Jung postulated—some genetic memory incorporated into their genome based on the First Couple’s shared African ancestry and dating to the period where Dogon sorcerers and Zulu sangomas were exalted and venerated across the Dark Continent.

All attempts to discredit the mad, disheveled Siberian or to dissuade the Obamas from their growing reliance on his advice, spiritual guidance and aesculapian hoodoo fell on deaf ears and were chalked up by Barack and Michelle to jealousy and class prejudice.

Yak.

Yak.

And, indeed, every time Jizmekuntovskovich left Malia’s bedside to perform an assigned wine duty, pustules popped afresh upon the pretty pariah’s puss and he’d have to rush back with his private stash of dessert wine/yak juice.

By mid-February, it became clear that Jizmekuntovskovich would serve the Obamas better as a metaphysical anchor rather than a wine steward, so—with some reluctance—they retrieved old ‘Screwcap’ from pasture, and set up the rumpled Rooskie in the Lincoln Bedroom so that he could be immediately available for any spiritual consultation, psychic mysticiszing or ritualized healing that might become necessary.

Nomadic horse-breeders.

Nomadic horse-breeders.

By the beginning of March, Obamaclan had grown so emotionally attached to the former sommelier that it became quite impossible to hide it from the general public.  Rush Limbaugh opined that the President was spending so much time in the private company of his Commie confidant that they were obviously lovers; Glenn Beck tried to dig up some dirt on Jizmekuntovskovich, but the only thing he could come up with was some minor incident in 2001 when a tribe of nomadic horse-breeders from the Dzhugdzhur Mountains all died after being treated by him with Scilla siberica, a common ingredient in rat poison, for what turned out to be nothing more than an outbreak of scabies.  Beyond that, Beck had nothing.

And yet, by St. Patrick’s Day, even Vice President Biden grew concerned as the President began to refer to Jizmekuntovskovich as ‘The Holy Man’ or simply, ‘Our Friend’ to indicate how entirely he was bedecked with the First Family’s good will and trust.

On the surfact, neither the President nor his wife appeared to realize that the mystic Marxist moke had his own nefarious agenda to advance, and was slowly, methodically working their marionette strings…

But more will be revealed about this shortly.

The Plot Sickens

Know thy enemy

Know thy enemy

It began with the innocuous-sounding Embargo of Portuguese Pork Products (known in Portugal as ‘El Bloqueo’) signed into law on March 21, 2013 following a suspected outbreak of porcine spongifrom vaginal discharge syndrome and was intended to prevent the import of dry-cured presunto be Barosso ham, choriço and linguiça meat sausages.  Unfortunately, as a public health emergency, the bill was passed so quickly that most Congressmen didn’t bother to read the fine print, which also restricted all travel by U.S. citizens to Portugal, froze all Portuguander assets in the United States and imposed heavy penalties on foreign companies who traded with Portugal—up to and including rescinding their right to do business in North America.

On April 1st, following an intensive one-on-one spiritual pow-wow at Camp David with Jizmekuntovskovic—who had recently named Special Advisor on Iberian Affairs—the President issued an Executive Order to widen the scope of the trade restrictions to include every single imported item from Portugal—including salted cod, Portuguese cigars, pickled castor beans, greater mouse-eared bat pelts, Vasco de Gama masks, Manueline wrought-iron balconies and gay fado troubadours.

There was, within the twenty-seven thousand four-hundred eight line items listed in the embargo, only one exception:

Wine corks.

Combined with the meteoric career path of the raunchy Russian rube and the fact that his beloved montado cork was spared the executive ax, the fear that his influence over President Obama was reaching pathological levels ratcheted upward across the nation.  Further inflaming the general concensus was Jizmekuntovskovich receiving the  blessing,  encouragement and total endorsement of Michelle Obama and the whitehead-free Malia, who now referred to the Samoyedic slob as ‘The Holiest of Holies’ and was widely quoted in the press as saying, ‘You claim he pollutes us, but no… He purifies us…’

Even Barack Obama sensed that his advisor’s presence in the White House had grown politically inappropriate, so he formed a task force which he immediately sent to Portugal to monitor, inspect, verify and pursue suspected trade embargo violations.

The unit was hand-picked by Obama’s trusted Iberian advisor who, of course, led the mission.

WMD: Weapons of Mass Deflowerization

On April 29, 2013, what he and his team of lackeys claimedto have discovered in an abandoned geranium greenhouse near Vendas Novas was the catalyst which brought America to her collective, wine-stained knees.

Geranium-235: A Tutorial

In the waning days of the Cold War, florists working for the US Army Corps of Engineers discovered that there is a fissile isotope making up 0.73% of the stigmas of the endemic Iberian species Geranium azorica, used throughout as the base for Portuguese saffron—at the time, not only the world’s most expensive spice, but a key ingredient in the classic local dessert Bolo amarelo (Yellow cake).

Bolo amarelo

Bolo amarelo

A primordial nuclide with a half-life of seven hundred billion years, when enriched in a gas centrifuge 235 G has an explosive geometry so devastating that even a small test bomb would wipe out all life on earth, and likely the race of Martians discovered by that uppity negro Neil deGrasse Tyson in January, 2013.  Therefore, within moments of realizing the isotope’s solar-system-ending potential, all work ceased upon weapons grade Geranium-235 and it was forever banned from further development by the Comprehensive G-Bomb Non-Proliferation Treaty of 1968, ratified by every nation on earth—even those that no one gives a shit about like Liechtenstein and Malta.

So, Jizmekuntovskovich’s official report stating that Portugan nuclear horticulturists were literally hours away from perfecting a Geranium bomb caused an unfortunate knee-jerk reaction in Congress.  Not only that, but in a rare non-consensus decision, the International Floral Energy Agency—an intergovernmental forum for scientific cooperation in the peaceful use of blossom technology and posy power—found Portugal in non-compliance with its Safeguards Agreement.

The response of the Portugalish parliament was immediate and consisted of desperate denials, to which the United Nations responded harshly:

‘We will not play cat and mouse games with a nation of cement-making, pig-farming, fandango-flitting terrorists who we previously considered too inebriated to understand floral technology—a mistake we will not make again.’

That evening, May 1, 2013—a date that will live in infamy—President Obama addressed the nation and cited The George W. Bush Pre-Emptive Strike Protocol of 2003, and explained that ‘a full hour’s worth of diplomacy has failed—and this, my fellow Americans, is an hour we shall never get back,’ and announced that that America’s ‘Army Of One’ would now become ‘A Coalition of One’ and that he intended to follow The Ronald Reagan ‘We Begin Bombing In Five Minutes’ Protocol of 1984 to forever rid the world of the threat of magnoliophytic militarism.

Dubbed Operation Bolo Amarelo, America’s subsequent, calamitous war of aggression against the puny, pathetic, piss-poor, pussified Portuguese people became the biggest mismatch since Superbowl XXIV when the Niners beat the Broncos 55 – 10.

Bye bye, Emeril

Bye bye, Emeril

Worse, it wound up eroding U.S. power in dramatic and irreversible ways and will likely be remembered as the greatest strategic blunder in American history, not merely because of the collateral damage—a hundred thousand Portu-punks pushing up petunias within five months, the utter razing of Lisbon, Amadora and Braga, the establishment of black sites and unaccountable detention facilities, the symbolic toppling of the Emeril Legasse statue in the Algueirão-Mem Martins town square, the trial and subsequent execution of Portuguese President Eréctobal Çopulata Dildão—but because upon closer inspection, it was discovered that the so-called geranium-enrichment centrifuge that Jizmekuntovskovich claimed to have found in the abandoned greenhouse was nothing more than a 4000 liter, self-aerating Bio-Pure leaf composter.

America wanted answers, and they wanted them immediately.  Obama was unable to provide anything satisfactory, and on October 10, 2013, he sputtered through the most disastrous television address of his career, later referred to by pundits and poltroons as his ‘Wha’ Happened?’ speech.

Corticeira AmorimWell, it was clear what had happened, and even without the consipiracy nuts on overdrive, it soon became common knowledge that an outrageous law had passed virtually unnoticed amid the furore surrounding the hanging of the Portuguese President, giving American wine companies a massive share of Corticeira Amorim and, thus, ownership in the world’s largest cork reserves, meanwhile removing Portugal’s sovereign right to manage her own natural resources.

It shortly became obvious to the public that the real casus belli for the war had nothing to do with flower power, but with the vast Quercus suber forests of central Portugal.

‘To the victors, the bark’ was the rallying cry of the law’s sponsors.

A Brief Overview of American Dependence on Foreign Cork

The endless drumbeat that we’ve heard for decades—that America ‘must reduce her dependence on foreign cork’—has led to some devastating economic, political and alternative-closure choices.  Given our nation’s infrastructure, alcohol addiction and general reluctance to embrace corkless wine stoppers, a logistics model was developed in 1992 to determine when the ‘peak’ requirement for imported cork usage would occur.

That year turned out to be 2013.

What Did They Know, And When Did They Know It?

Grigori Schlongolov Jizmekuntovskovich

Grigori Schlongolov Jizmekuntovskovich

On October 28, 2013, nearly 30,000 classified war-related documents were published on the Internet by WikiLeaks, proving what had long been suspected: That there was a clear connection between President Obama and Grigori Schlongolov Jizmekuntovskovich long before before the latter’s White House appointment; private messages between the two from 2009 were revealed in which they discussed CPEC’s threat to slash cork production, thus keeping profits high with winemakers increasingly switching to synthetics, Stelvins, Vino-Seals and Zorks.

Furthermore, voice-activated audio-recordings from the Oval Office, reviewed at length by Special Prosecutor Archibald ‘I Haven’t Got Any Pubes’ Cox, showed that the invasion of Portugal had been planned as early as 2011.  The most damning revelation was Obama’s recorded phone call to Jizmekuntovskovich in November, 2011, when he said:

 “What we are really after is a bark pipeline through Portugal to transport high-quality Iberian cork easily and cheaply. And so, I have promised Eréctobal Çopulata Dildão—that sheep-schtupping, cheese-chomping, fadisto-fellating Lisboner—that he has an opportunity, here:  Either a carpet of gold or a carpet of bombs…”

That was that, of course.

Barack Obama’s final, wretched speech to the nation on November 5, 2012, was all of 57 words long.  It is given here verbatim:

“This is the 37th time I have addressed you, but the first time without a teleprompter.  To speak extemporaneously is abhorrent to every instinct in my body.  But, let me say this, completely unrehearsed and off the cuff: I don’t believe that I oughta quit, because I’m not a quitte…

Hell, who am I kidding?  I quit.”

President Joseph Biden jamming a phallic device in his ear.

President Joseph Biden jamming a phallic device in his ear.

An hour after Biden was sworn in on November 6, 2013—ironically, one year to the day after Obama’s landslide re-election victory—‘Screwcap’ McKlittery offered a noticeably shaken, and now unemployed Grigori Schlongolov Jizmekuntovskovich a large glass of 1997 Plumpjack Cabernet Sauvignon which had been heavily laced with cyanide, and then shot him at point blank range several times, then clubbed him over the head with an ice bucket.  He then rolled the rigid Russian inside a Romanian ramskin rug and threw him into the icy Potomoc River where he drowned.

Thus, the were the American people able to move beyond Corkgate, and under President Biden, heal.

Epilogue

wine bottleIt is not so easy to say what will happen to the wine industry in 2014, since the Portugualicans are in process of burning all their Quercus suber forests and replacing them with safe pastureland for McDonald’s beef cattle.  Other cork producing nations like Morrocco, Algeria and Tunisia, fearful of similar shock ‘n’ awww treatment by cork-thirsty Americans, are doing the same.

What does this mean for the wine stopperage industry?  President Biden’s first official act was to sign into law the American Recovery and Reinvestment Act, allocating $71 billion for efficient and renewable cork alternatives; it also includes $20 billion in tax incentives for such companies as would quickly rise to the challenge. Plug-in hybrid electric corks, although in their infancy, show the potential for drastic cuts in bark consumption, and several screwcap manufacturers are developing the next generation of threaded aluminum capsules.

Most innovative and perhaps most ironic of all is the work being done by Monsanto’s Molecular Breeding Technology team in St. Louis, MO.  They have recently discovered a unique, sustainable, carbon-neutral method of compressing geranium stem fibers into convenient cork-shaped cylinders.

The claim is made that the radioactivity contained within these ‘gernorks’ (as the media has dubbed them) is less than you would receive with fifteen x-rays minus lead protection in a Chernobyl dental clinic, while your odds of contracting cancer from a gernork is about the same as your chance of being struck by lightning!*

*If you happen to be standing in a bucket of water on a very tall building during a severe thunderstorm holding a fifty-foot section of re-bar in the air.

It is so very American to rebound from national tragedy via defined steps: First, denial; then, anger; then, bargaining; then depression, and finally, forgetting about the whole thing and fucking everything up all over again.

Onward and upward, eno-weenies.  Happy New Year, 2014!

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Wine Predictions, 2013: Remember, You Heard Them Here First

Some things you may not know about me:

My favorite color is SAE/ECE amber—one of the few technically approved colors for automotive signal lamps.  Also, I enjoy long, romantic strolls on the beach at sunset.  As well, there is nothing that makes me happier than being awoken by a snuggly, huggly puppy nuzzling my crotch.  Equally, I can predict the future.

godfather-trilogyI discovered this last talent as a teenager, having found a magical ‘book’ in our den that foretold precisely where I would be and what I would be doing at, say, 12:00 PM the following Sunday—and it proved to be absolutely accurate.  Of course, it was TV Guide and AMC was showing the entire remastered Godfather trilogy at noon, so this is probably not a really good example.

I have noticed, however, that several times each year—especially when I am under undue stress from collection agencies and Friend of the Court—when I sit down to write a wine column, it is almost as if I sink into a fugue state and some occult Ouija force takes control of my fingers and types for me.  When the unseen ‘spirit’ presence finishes its ‘work’, I find that instead of whatever subject I had intended to cover (for example, Wines That Can Cause—And Cure—Bubonic Plague), an altogether different column has appeared—one that reports in detail some wine-world event which has not yet occurred.

For instance, I knew that Robert Parker was going to sell the Avocate six months before he did; I knew the exact day and time that the great Frank J. Prial was going to die, and I soothsaid all 100 Wine Enthusiast top 2012 wines, in order—although my Delphic scribe tends to write in cryptic, highly metaphorical ‘Virgilianized’ syntax, similar to the Preterite interpretation of the Book of Revelations.  So, in my top 100 list, Riglos 2009 Gran Corte Las Divas 2009 (Mendoza) came out more like ‘big red trendy wine not from Napa but yet, from this century’.

Moi

Moi

Normally, of course, I like to keep such columns on the QT, because who wants to be called insane by a bunch of deranged basket-cases like you guys?  But in this case, the result of my ethereal encounter was so earth-shattering that I feel I have no choice but to share it with you, my long-suffering if lunatic readership, because should the prophecy come to pass—and it will, make no mistake—your life will be irrevocably altered and you will never, ever be able to think about wine the same way again.

Tune in to Part II to find out the global wine cataclysm I have predicted for 2013…

Wine Predictions, 2013: Part Two

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MacLean is MacDirty?? I Have Your Hack Back, Natalie!

palate pressOver the past week, dutch-courage diva and distillate dominatrix Natalie MacLean has found herself in some professional hot water.  It began with the Palate Press’s tabloidesque rippage of her website’s use of unattributed wine reviews from other wine writers without their permission, and sometimes without their names, then charging money for a ‘Magnum Membership’ in which she reprints them.

Here is a pilfered parcel from the PP piece for which I did not request so much as a by-your-leave, and for which I ask that you send me ten dollars to defray drink-related expenses:

‘…In addition to her own reviews, which are often a sentence or less, Ms. MacLean includes professional wine reviews by writers from other publications…’

A sentence or less??  Yeah, baby!  Less than a sentence is my kinda wine review.

What's black and white and red all over? Natalie's face!!

What’s black and white and red all over? Natalie’s face!!

Well, I can say this, Natalie MacLean: Know thy enemy. And sleep easier with the assurance that in such times of establishmentarian blitzkrieg, your struggle—in ways a metaphor for our own country’s patriotic defense against WMDs in the Middle East—need not be unilateral.

You and me can be a coalition of two, sugar hips.  Because, in the immortal, bubonic ebonics of Jayson Blair:

‘Been dere, done dat.’

For Example…

'Blow me, shysters.'

Blow me, shysters

In my first book, ‘Everything I Know About Wine, By Other People’ (Queernut Press, 2003), I essentially cribbed together bits and bobs from every wine book in my personal collection, including entire chapters from mutha-junkst munchkin and slobber sensei Oz Clarke’s ‘Somewhere Over The Rainbeaucastel’,  Robert Parker Jr.’s ‘Atlas Chugged’, Jamie Goode’s ‘No Goode Crying Over Spilled 1985 Cros Parantoux’—even Natalie MacLean’s own opus, ‘Is That A Forty-Bottle Melchizedek In Your Pocket Or Are You Just Happy To See Me?

The fact that no one actually read my book * is the only thing standing between me and the career-ending ignominy now facing Ms. MacLean.

* (In my second book, ‘War ‘n’ Peace, I pretty much offer you an overview of the French invasion of Russia and the impact of the Napoleonic era on Tsarist society as seen through the eyes of five Russian aristocratic families.  I know this has nothing to do with wine, but I thought I’d mention it because sales have slacked off.)

westboroAnyway, the Big Mac’s hack attack has drawn hate mail equivalent to that received daily by the Westboro Baptist Church’s newsletter, ‘God Hates Stephen Ambrose, Not Because His Book The Wild Blue: The Men and Boys Who Flew the B-24s Over Germany’ was plagiarized from Thomas Childers’ ‘Wings of Morning: The Story of the Last American Bomber Shot Down over Germany’ in World War II’  But Because He’s A Fag’.

Here are a few random rants, and for each one you read, I expect $2.50 to be deposited into my PayPal account:

Canadian Wine Guy:  ‘She is a major blemish on our industry…’

Tom Hyland: ‘Canadian Wine Guy: You hit the nail on the head regarding Natalie being a ‘major blemish on our industry’.’

(Note that Hyland gave proper acknowledgement to CWG’s quote but did not ask permission to use it).

Stephen Reiss, Ph.D

Stephen Reiss, Ph.D

Stephen Reiss, Ph.D: ‘I have been writing wine reviews well over 20 years and always state the source of the wine, whether bought at retail, in a restaurant or tasted at the winery – I do not accept samples.’ 

(A Ph.D?  Ooooooh.  In what, Stephen—Show-Off-ology??  Dude, you are a frigging doctor—you can afford not to accept free samples, so stop lording it over those of us who have to not only accept samples but sell them on the black market in order to feed our children.)

natalie-maclean-2012Lenn Thompson:We’ve been down this road with Natalie before, haven’t we? Having ‘friends’ comment on her behalf, defending her?’

(Damn you to Mordor, Thompson—how dare you put my friendship in quotes-unquotes simply because I choose to defend a sexy colleague with hellacious hooters and a bitchin badonkadonk in her time of need?)

Curious Wine Guy: ‘Natalie Maclean has proven herself time and again a self-promoting hack.  As far as I am concerned she has had no credibility since I once attended a dinner at which she was the keynote speaker that she could barely navigate to the podium from her drunkenness.’ 

(Oh, really, Curious?  From one hack to another, if ‘drunkenness’ was in any ways related to ‘credibility’, I wouldn’t have been able to sweet-talk my way out of four DUIs in the past six months.)

My head: Here's hoping that Stephen Reiss, Ph.D can help.

My head: Hoping that Stephen Reiss, Ph.D can help.

Clive:  ‘I find her hair most disturbing, it’s so perfect.’

(You’d love me, then, Clive!  I have seborrhoeic dermatitis of the scalp, head lice, bald patches caused by lupus erythematosus and I haven’t used shampoo or touched a hairbrush since 2009).

And finally, from the prima donna herself:

Natalie MacLean: ‘…I have had a thorough discussion with a legal expert on copyright and know that what I am doing now and what I will be doing in the future is not only legal, but right.’

So, there you go.  She’s MacLean as a whistle. The lawyers are on her side, even if the Ph.Ds aren’t, and if a legal expert says you can earn a living based on somebody else doing all the work, I am four-square in favor.

Shall We Keep Things In Perspective? 

Look, these are wine reviews, people, and if you can—with a straight face—assign the word ‘intellectual’ to ‘property’ in which you tell me what a glass of riesling smells like, your ego may be bigger than Stephen Reiss, Ph.D’s.

vulture-childWhy then the nuclear-level vitriol?  I mean, it’s not as if she leaked documents threatening national security or outed a CIA operative; she didn’t pull a Maureen Dowd and copy paragraphs verbatim from Josh Marshall after having lambasted Joe Biden for stump-speech plagiarism and she didn’t accidentally use the word ‘pickaninny’ when describing Pulitzer Prize winning Kevin Carter’s photo of a vulture stalking a Sudanese kid.  (Carter, incidentally, committed suicide in 1994; our girl Natalie is alive and kickin’)

Natalie MacMaster is actually pretty hot, too.

Natalie MacMaster is actually pretty hot too.

Her crime?  Nothing more than being a skanky skiver scamming scat from a scattering of scrotty scribes, and now she’s screwed.  I’m telling you, Nat baby, I went through the same load of horsepucky last year when I described a Napa cabernet as showing ‘concentrated notes of cassis, forest floor, pipe tobacco, mocha and cedar; silky in texture with nicely integrated tannins building to a lingering finish’ and had fifty-two—count ‘em, fifty-two—incensed wine critics write me to say they had once described a Napa cabernet in similar terms.

So, my hat is off to you, Natalie MacLean, along with any other article of clothing you allow me to remove in the course of our upcoming, one-on-one session regarding copyright laws.

I am sure that you—exactly like me—merely figured that ‘copyright’ guaranteed your right to copy.

*

http://palatepress.com/2012/12/wine/content-theft/#comment-45516

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What’s Christmas All About, Stillman Brown?

‘Normative ethics’ is that branch of philosophy concerned with the practical means of determining a moral line of conduct in a given situation.  It is rooted in the Greek word ethos, meaning ‘character’, and is perhaps the single most socially significant word we have usurped from these randy old buggers since pedophilia.

Help Me, I Kant Decide…

Kant means won't.

Kant means won’t.

I remain in an introspective mood this morning, and I am questioning the correct moral course of action for me to take, at Christmas time, in a specific for instance.  And I look upon you, my impartial, eager-to-assist plonk patrons, to offer an opinion:

Without naming names, let’s say I have a good buddy who makes wine for a living out in Paso Robles, and he sent me some samples to review at this, the holiest of seasons for excess drinking.  How do I handle it, ethically?  Do I rave about the wines simply for the sake of brotherhood, bonding and moral low-ground, or do I take the categorical imperative deduced by Kant—the ‘ought’ vs. the ‘is’—and say they suck the mega-male-member?

You tell me.

*

Ha ha ha ha ha!  Just kidding, I loved the wines.  I just wanted to see if I could make the needle on Stillman Brown’s turntable skip.

*

Detroit People Mover

Detroit People Mover

Anyway, if you have ever known someone with moderate autism, and potentially even married her/him, one of the inexplicable but endearing things about them is their recurring, obsessive thoughts and compulsive actions.  Like, when I was growing up there was an autistic kid in the neighborhood that learned every tiny detail about Detroit’s elevated light-rail system, the People Mover, and was actually arrested several times for joy-riding on it.  Another kid, the brother of a friend, had a thing about license plates—he could remember every one he ever saw, including mine—but needed help going to the bathroom.

Now, I am not suggesting that Stillman Brown is autistic—not at all.  Nor am I saying that his somatic obsessions and repetitious rituals are the result of psychosis and/or substance abuse.

I might be thinking it, but I’m not saying it.

stillman eating elvisNonetheless, something has to explain his morbid fixation with zeppelins and Elvis Presley.  It is textbook OCD, and I understand this without need for a structured diagnostic interview.  They appear in all aspects of his life, personal, public and professional, over and over and over…

Of course, a polite person and concerned friend does not ask the private meaning of these esoteric symbols and why they have so cornered him; I suppose it would be like asking Rain Man why he watches People’s Court.  But, they are clearly intrusive, distressing and time-consuming issues, and yet something he does not appear able to control.

Let’s look at some examples:

ZeppelinFirst, he seems driven to name all his wines after zeppelins—no surprise, but still…  WTF?  There’s Black Zeppelin, Pink Zeppelin, Red Zeppelin, and if he was able to ferment bell peppers, I’m sure there would be a Green Zeppelin.

Go to http://www.redzeppelinwinery.com/ and do your best to view it with the perspective of neurodiversity.

As a first-timer, you will naturally go first to the tab that reads ‘About’, since you are curious as to where all this autistic-spectrum repetitive phenomenology is coming from.  There you will find, in Stillman’s own company summation, the use of the word ‘zeppelin’ six individual times in two short paragraph.  (To be totally honest, I have a touch of OCD myself and have to count the ‘zeppelins’ nine times, walk in nine circles, then count them over again).

elvisposterGo to the immediate right on that same page, and you’ll find—for sale—a poster called ‘Elvis Died For Your Sins’, of which the following delusional claim is made:  ‘Steeped in Elvis history, lore and truthfulness’.  The image appears to be the product of an extremely severe LSD flashback, painted by an artist who inherited all of the insanity of the masters Van Gogh, Munch and Dali, and none of their skill sets.

Moving on, we explore the FAQs tab, and find that someone had the masochistic audacity to wonder where the name Red Zeppelin came from,  to which Mr. Brown responds with a disintegrative, Aspergerish history lesson about the role zeppelins have played in European theaters of war.  I will guarantee you that neither Robert Plant nor Jimmy Page know—or care—this much about zeppelins, and they’re Europeans.

swilly and elvisFinally, like those Faces of Death flicks, if you are so mesmerized by this OCD winemaker that you want more, you are invited to access his personal web page at http://www.stillmanbrown.blogspot.com/  That’s when you will begin your decent into the true abyss of mental-mutation madness.  It is all frenzied zeppelins and horrible Elvis impersonators; they fly at you like bats in a 60’s 3-D horror flick.

Speaking of which, despite my interest, respect—even love for Stillman Brown—I must say that he is to California winemaking what the egg lady is to Pink Flamingos.

strangeloveHe does turn out a hell of a good fermented product, though—somehow, some way—and with the holidays around the corner, I recommend that you do your best to ignore the psychopathy behind the winemaker and buy for the pedigree of his winemaking skills.

And since Stillman likes it if you call personally at 805-550-6492 to order your wine (the human touch is good therapy), please remember to complement him on his unique Christmas card this year, which portrays him in full Elvis regalia riding a crashing zeppelin like Slim Pickens did the Doomsday bomb.  Beneath the image is Stillman’s short list for Santa Claus:

‘All I want for Christmas are my two frontal lobes’.  *

Tasting Notes:

ZEPPELINPINK2012Zeppelin Winery, ‘Dry Pink Wine’, Paso Robles, 2012, about $20: 2011 ‘Dry Pink’, as covered in a March column, was grenache-based; this vintage winds up only 12% grenache with the volume made up by syrah (42%), mourvedre (38%) and cinsault (9%).  And apparently it is just as well, since Stillman’s tasting notes refer to grenache-heavy Côtes du Rhône rosé as ethereal, flowery… and wimpy.  His version is decidedly not wimpy, with great gams and plenty of oomph and color extraction to rival some pinot noirs.  The flavors are robust as well, with pungent red berry and cherry on the nose followed by a fleshy, chewy, refreshing palate filled with orange rind, strawberry jam, a little smoke and a racy, clean finish.

Zeppelin Winery, Chateau d’Abalone Verdejo, Paso Robles, 2012, about  $25:  The first verdejo released in San Luis Obispo County, the wine is a crisp tribute to Rueda, Spain.  Once used to make rich, sherry-like, Stillman Brown-colored fortified wine, if handled correctly (and not allowed to oxidize) verdejo can produce a vibrant, citrusy, fresh-tasting table wine—and in the case, does.  Brown wisely blends his verdejo with  sauvignon blanc—a grape with a similar profile and a natural affinity, but a bit more volume.  The wine shows an array of stone fruits, green apple, grapefruit and herbs balanced by a crisp, refreshing acidity and a nice dose of minerality.

The Mask of Sanity

The Mask of Sanity

Zeppelin Winery, ‘Colossus’ Syrah, Paso Robles, 2011, around $50:  A booty-booting 16.5% alcohol, this blockbuster syrah from Gill Vineyard is worthy of its name and label.  2010 saw Brown harvest two tons per acre; 2011, only a single, concentrated ton equating to a mere 53 cases of wine.  What exists in inky intrigue is beautifully rich and laced with blackberry, allspice, white pepper, sweet dark cherries and an oaken, vanilla core along with subtle tones of earth and game.  Long, long, long on the palate.

 

* Special thanks to the American Psychiatric Association and C.J. McDougle (Repetitive Thoughts and Behavior in Pervasive Developmental Disorders; 2000) for their  help in composing this wine review.

 

Posted in CALIFORNIA, Paso Robles | Tagged , , , | 2 Comments

Another Column About Me. Oh, And ‘The Slow Wine Guide’

Like so many of you, I like to pause during the final weeks of December and do some personal reflection with the aim of becoming a better parent, a better friend, a better American and a kinder, gentler anti-journalist in the upcoming Year of the Triskaidekaphobe, 2013.

Portrait of the Artist as a Young Man

Portrait of the Artist as a Young Manic

At times—as you know—this can be difficult.  When one confronts one’s self with one’s wonders, the war seems overwhelmingly winnable.  But, when one becomes one with one’s warts and weaknesses, one may find one’s wonders woefully wanting.

Even so, honesty and private personal showdown is the only pathway to self-improvement, right?

Of course, being an uncontainable narcissist convinced that everyone on the planet is interested in me, I don’t do ‘private’.  So, with my soul bared in truth and sincerity, here is probably the only thing I can find that is really wrong with me:

I’m jealous of wine writers with global influence.

And, as a result, rather than simply ‘growing up’ and learning more about the subject itself—the history of vinification, the numerous emerging appellations, the recent trends and latest news in the wine industry—I instead act out my pique like a petulant pre-schooler.

I make fun of Alice Feiring’s frizzy shredded-wheat split-ends, Robert Parker’s pretentious, repetitious, silly-sounding made-up words, and the fact that if you say ‘Hugh Johnson’ really fast, it comes out ‘huge johnson’.

Clipboard timI torment Michael Broadbent for his cult-like obsession with Château Musar despite the fact that nine bottles out of ten taste like manure-flavored prune juice. I claim that Tim Atkin has a prose-style only slightly more fun than the time spent waiting for a glacier to calve.   I call Oz Clarke a yellow-brick-road munchkin and Eric Asimov a space alien; I mock Jancis Robinson for totally misspelling her own name, and, rather than devouring the delightful, insightful wine wisdom of Karen MacNeil, I fantasize about what she looks like naked.

It’s not that I’m a total unprofessional jerk-off, compatriots.  I’m just a crestfallen loser in the Land of the Unlimited Lazy.

You See…

everclear…two decades ago, I was a boy with dreams.  Big ones.  The fire in my belly was more than the three shots 190-proof Everclear Grain Alcohol that I routinely have for breakfast.

I went into wine writing not for the free samples, not for the chance to day-drink at winemaker lunches nor to score semi-tanked chicks in winery tasting rooms.  I took up my pen with the intention of changing the world.  The stars in my eyes were similar to the ones that Dom Perignon once claimed to have tasted in his Épernay wine cellar.

I didn’t want to write ‘wine reviews’ so much as re-write the way wine reviews themselves are written—not to explore an individual bottle’s nuances and subtleties, but as a way to pile up so many non-sequiturs and obiter dictums that it really didn’t matter if I did any research beyond sample guzzling.  If I could entertain a single reader—just one—without having to look up halbtrocken, saignée or Pedro Ximénez, I would have considered my mission a success.

Well, you know the term ‘epic fail’, people?  I can bear to say no more.

And Just When I Thought It Couldn’t Get Any Worse…

…Along comes the second edition of the Slow Wine: The Guide To Italian Wineries Judged Good, Clean and Fair, set to be unveiled on January 28th in New York City, January 30th in Miami and February 4th in San Francisco.

slow_wine_0I won’t be there, and why should I be?  The Slow Wine people have taken the remnant of my dream, mashed it up like an overripe banana and jammed it down the throat of a rabid macaque.  They’ve hired Islamic sleeper-cell terrorists to wire a mobile phone-operated IED to my testicles, then paged me.  In short, they’ve urinated ubiquitously and uncaringly upon my Über-ego.

What did I ever do to them?  Nonetheless, according to Marco Bolasco, CEO of Slow Food Editore:

“With Slow Wine we have changed the way of reviewing wine.”

So there you go.  Everyone’s always trying to copy me.  Twenty years of schlepping schlock to the schmeggegies and the shikkers and some bucatini-bending goombah goes ahead and steals my wine-world-changing thunder in a single press release.

Which, if you believe it, accomplished this (in theory) simply by adopting an approach to wine criticism that ‘looks at a variety of factors to evaluate wineries in their entirety, taking into consideration the wine quality, typicity and adherence to terroir, value for money, environmental sensitivity and ecologically sustainability’.

What this means in practice is that the book has assigned none or more of three ‘innovative symbols’ to evaluate four hundred wineries depending on how hard each place has worked to distinguish itself through its interpretation of sensorial, territorial, environmental and personal values in harmony with the Slow Food philosophy.

Clipboard snailThe symbols are as follows:

The Snail, the Slow Food symbol, signals a cellar that has met or exceeded all of the anal requirements of the global grassroots organization envisioning a world in which all people can access and enjoy environmentally sustainable wine.

The Bottle is allocated to cellars that show a consistently high quality throughout their range of wines.

The Coin is an indicator of great value.

Hang On While I Call My Lawyers, Slow Wine Guide. 

They did copy me.  I had this same idea ten years ago when I evaluated over twelve thousand wineries in my first book, ‘I’m Not Really A Drunk, I Just Play One While Watching T.V.’  using… You guessed it… Three symbols for criteria that if not identical, are too close to Slow Wine’s to be mere ‘coincidence’.

But, you judge.  My symbols were:

Clipboard grahmThe Wallaby With A Broadhead Stuck In Its Descending Colon:  Signals a cellar that insists on foisting bulk garbage onto supermarket shelves with splashy labels, massive advertising campaigns, the useless caché of being ‘imported’ and a price point which, however low, is still way, way too high for what you wind up drinking.

The Randall Grahm:  Indicates a winery where the viticultural practices are so whackadoodle that you are forced to question the sanity of the winemaker and ask yourself if such folks should be allowed to walk the streets as free people.

The Scottish Person With His Kilt Pockets Turned Inside Out: Allocated to wineries too cheap to send me free wine, but merely offer me spec sheets and a chance to speak to someone on staff if I have any questions.

Why Do I Go On?  Why Do I Even Bother?

Smorgasbord of Nubility

Smorgasbord of  Nattering Nubility

I know, right?  That’s the downside of late December introspection.  Frequently, it occurs to you that really, really great ideas in this fast-track world are so utterly usurpable that you might as well not even bother coming up with them to begin with.

I’m telling you, dear readers, if it wasn’t for the drunk babes in the tasting room, I’d have tossed in the towel long ago.

Posted in GENERAL | Tagged , | 2 Comments

Smith-Madrone And The Value Of Venerable Vines

Today’s ‘tree falls in the forest’ enigma, my friends:  If one digresses before one begins, is it still a digression?

Because, before I get involved in all this boring ‘old vine’ Smith-Madrone crap, I would like to take a moment out of your busy schedule to discuss hyphenated names.  When I was first married, it was fashionable for a strong-willed, newly-wedded woman to declare both the sanctity of her union and the power of her own identity by hyphenating her ‘maiden’ name with that of her husband.  Not my wife, naturally—I purposely chose someone meek, submissive and entirely dominatable who, incidentally, I would not allow to have friends and constantly compared unfavorably to my late, saintly mother.

Obviously slipped on the walk and fell in it.

He obviously slipped on the walk and fell in face-first.

On the surface, the hyphenated-name solution seems like a politically correct win/win, but in truth, it winds up being unwieldy, pretentious and perplexing—whose last name comes first and why?—and really, who wants to have to spell their name, letter by letter, to some zit-smeared teenage phone jockey every time you order pizza??

Not only that, but the name that the woman keeps on one side of the dash or the other as an assertion of her ‘non-spousal-ownership’ feminism is probably her father’s family name anyway.

I actually knew a dude who changed his name to a hyphenated version of his last name and his new wife’s last name, just like she did.  Five minutes after being impressed with his loyalty, conjugal commitment and selfless pluck, I began to think of him as a wimpy dingledouche.  And I still do.

You want a hyphen, my boy, try this: P-Whipped.

My second wife simply kept her own last name, and that seems to be the optimal Band-Aid.  For different reasons, our oldest has her last name and our youngest mine.  When this causes confusion in school, at the doctor’s office or in social situations and folks ask why they have different last names, I have found that the most satisfactory and expedient response is:  ‘None of your fucking business.’

Nap Time

L.: Stu Smith. R.: Charles F. Smith

L.: Stu Smith. R.: Charles F. Smith

Now, I am not suggesting that Smith and Madrone are married, and even with California’s liberal legislative super-majority, it’s not likely that the definition of matrimony will be expanded, in our lifetime, to included a union between a man and a tree.

Nonetheless, according to Stu Smith, Smith-Madrone vineyard manager, that’s where the winery’s name comes from:

“It sounds better than Smith-Douglas Fir, Smith-Manzanita, Smith-Oak and certainly, better than Smith-Poison Oak—the predominant trees and shrubs on the property in 1972 when my brother Charles and I first began planting.  ‘Smith’ is not exactly a grand Mediterranean wine name, and certainly we couldn’t call it just Smith Winery.  Smith-Madrone, however, has a nice ring to it—and the madrone is now the most prominently cultivated tree on the property.  It fits, too: The madrone tree never stands out alone in the forest; it’s always clustered for shade and protection with others…”

Trivia: Stu and Charles appeared on a 'Simpsons' episode in 1998

Trivia: Stu and Charles appeared on a ‘Simpsons’ episode in 1998

Smith then goes on, somewhat interminably, about madrone taxonomy, distribution and habitat, referring to it by its biological tri-nomial Arbutus menziesii Pursh—but I will not transcribe the lecture  here because if anyone is going to bore my readers to suicidal catatonia, it will be me, not Mr. Stuart Smith.  Capisce?

We shall turn instead to Stu’s big brother Charles, who refers to himself as a ‘factotum’, which I was terrified might mean ‘somebody with as many boring scientific segues as Stu’, but which apparently  means ‘a person having diverse activities or responsibilities’.

More trivia: Madame Tussaud's has wax sculptures of Stu and Charles

More trivia: Madame Tussaud’s has wax sculptures of Stu and Charles Smith.

This is Charles’s modest way of saying that he is the vintner responsible for the trio of Smith-Madrone wines, all from the brothers’ dry-farmed Spring Mountain estate: Riesling, cabernet sauvignon and chardonnay.  The recent releases (2011, 2007 and 2010 respectively) have each taken gold medals in various competitions this year, including The San Francisco International Wine Competition, The Critics Challenge International Wine Competition and The Long Beach Grand Cru Wine Competition.

Despite such skill with the centrifuge and the cross-flow filter, and despite being a witty, charming and bright fellow (18th century Scottish philosopher and historian David Hume is a Smith forefather), Charles is hardly off the hook in the brain-busting banality department:  He’s also a world-class croquet player who boasts of having been a co-participant in the longest single game in the history of the World Croquet Federation. *

*How do I know that the Smith brothers will take this column in the spirit of good humor with which it was intended?  Because they are members of a group called G.O.N.A.D.S—the Gastronomical Order for Nonsensical and Dissipatory Society—an informal group of Napa winemakers founded at around the same time the Smiths released their first riesling.   

 

Wake Up Call

An obvious Smith brother imposter.

An obvious Charles Smith imposter.

So, among the multifarious minutiae making Smith-Madrone a prize-winner—including vineyard elevation (at 1,300 and 2,000 feet, ranging in steepness up to 35%, these are among Napa’s highest vineyards), low yields (a total of 4000 cases from a 200 acre ranch) and volcanic soils unique to California’s coastal ranges, an indispensable part of the program are the age of the Smith-Madrone vines, which—fair, fat and forty—have truly come into their own.

So there’s no mistake, when you find ‘Old Vines’ on an American wine label—or ‘Vieilles Vignes’ on a French label—there is no legal precedent ensuring that you are getting anything but a kiss and a prayer from the labeler.  Both phrases are, like ‘Reserve’, simply marketing tools.

Obviously, a couple more imposters.  Jeez Louise!

Obviously, a couple more imposters. Jeez Louise, people!

However, certain physiological changes do occur in grape vines as they age, and nearly all equate to a higher-quality end product.  After about twenty years, a vine begins to produce fewer grape clusters and smaller berries, but those that form tend to yield more intense sugars, color and concentration of flavors.  Another key factor is the plant’s root system: In newer vines where roots are shallow, they are much more susceptible to the ravages of drought and excessive rain.  Especially in the former scenario, in coping with water stress, a vine calls in sick to the photosynthesis lab and switches to respiration—a survival technique that burns malic, resulting in grapes lacking in sufficient acidity to produce the correct sweet/sour ratio.  In older vines with a deeper root system, water can drain away in a flood or be located in a drought.  Note that Smith-Madrone drip-irrigated for the first few years of their vineyard’s life, only switching to the dry-farm (non-irrigated) system after the vines were firmly established.

Some non-old Smith-Madrone vines

Some non-old Smith-Madrone vines

All of which is not to suggest that old vines always produce better wines—or even smaller yields—and like the cellaring potential of wine itself, of which no catch-all statement can be made, not all vines grow old with grace: Plenty no longer produce a viable harvest when they reach the age of so-called maturity.  In fact, when a winemaker insists on the superiority of quality from wines harvested from old vines, you can be certain of only one fact:  He has old vines.

Not so for the Brothers Smith, who are not so crass as to spackle their labels with any sort of old-vine phraseology, hyphenated or otherwise—they hold the truth within the bottle to be self-evident.

Arbutus Menziesii Pursh

Arbutus Menziesii Pursh

And it is.

Thus, Those Questions Are Answered And But One Enigma Remains:

‘If a madrone falls in the forest and no one can hear it, will Stu and Charles get off their kiesters and pick it up…?’

Tasting Notes:

rieslingSmith-Arbutus Menziesii Pursh (has no particular ring to it, does it, Stu?) Riesling, Spring Mountain, 2011, about $25:  As a viticultural area, California has not enjoyed much success with riesling, especially lately—a lot of the attitudes are hold-overs from the pre-chardonnay era, when Napa riesling, though widely available, was not particularly good.  Formerly Napa Valley’s most widely planted varietal (five times as much as chardonnay), a lot of it was the wrong clone put in the wrong vineyard.  Too much heat and insufficient drainage produces flabby, character-free riesling, and once the bar of wine-drinking sophistication was raised in this country, such rieslings were back-burnered by those few vintners who didn’t rip them out in favor of trendier grapes.  Smith-Madrone has hung in there, and it shows: Among the best rieslings produced in the United States, and certainly in California, the complex, inviting, multi-layered depth of flavor is astonishing, with nuances of lemon zest, pear, honeyed apple, apricot and fresh pineapple laced with minerals.  At 12.6%, the alcohol is high by riesling standards, but a subliminal amount of residual sugar (0.07%) keeps the wine on track alongside its bracing backbone of acidity.  (Incidentally, ‘off-dry’ is another hyphenated label word that has no legal meaning).

L.: Trade. R.: Mark

L.: Trade. R.: Mark

Smith-Madrone Chardonnay Spring Mountain, 2010, about $30:  100% fermented in French oak followed by eight months in the barrel, the wine shows a rich golden color that you might otherwise associated with slight oxidation.  Not here, that’s for sure:  A brilliant nose filled with honeycomb, chamomile, beeswax, apricot and nectarine leads into a balanced body, with malolactic creaminess and a pH of 3.41 on a play date.  The mid-palate is luscious with tropical fruit notes as well as Golden Delicious apple and Bosc pear; the finish is studded with vanilla, butterscotch and petrichor.

cab labelSmith-Madrone Cabernet Sauvignon, Spring Mountain, 2007, about $45:  Grown at the very top of the mountain and on the steepest slopes, from harvest to Happy Hour, this is not a wine for the faint of heart.  Nearly black in color, the nose is extracted and condensed with scents of warm berry cobbler, cassis, cedar, smoke and yes—Smith Brother’s Cherry Cough Drops.  It had to be said.  The mouthfeel is lovely—silken smooth, with a nice nip of tannin; there are layers of black currant, fresh tobacco, pie spice and a solid earthen core and a long, luxuriant finish.  A worthy wine for the cellar, since I would be willing to bet my next court-ordered digression that it isn’t going anywhere bad any time soon.

Posted in CALIFORNIA, Spring Mountain District | Tagged , | 2 Comments

Bordeaux Without The Bloodshed

escargot1From time to time, I mock the French for some of their inexplicable cultural anomalies, such as eating bugs you can buy poison at English Gardens to kill and animals on which you can bet at Churchill Downs; for having had a First Lady who bragged about sleeping with both Mick Jagger and Donald Trump; for their inability to say ‘The thoughtful theropod thinks theology is thrilling’ and for having invented nothing of note but the useless hot air balloon and the equally useless metric system .

'You can't eat me, I'm... I'm... I'm Ann Coulter.'

‘You can’t eat me, I’m… I’m… I’m Ann Coulter.’

But even I must confess that France is, without question, the most important wine producing nation on earth, yesterday, today—and short of a really quick global warming fast-track—tomorrow.

If you’re one of those types who can be staggered by statistics, consider this:  France, roughly the size of Texas, produces over seven billion bottles of wine a year.  That’s not a typo, and if you’re counting those suckers off on the bus trip, you wind up on Alpha Centauri with a pretty hearty buzz.

France is the world’s second largest wine producer, schlepping just a tad less than Italy—all the more remarkable when you consider that Italy is essentially one massive boot-shaped vineyard and France grows vines in a handful of select, intense pockets.

Of the overall French wine output, Bordeaux produces about a billion bottles, about twice that of the Côtes du Rhône and four times that of Burgundy.

Château Lafite

Château Lafite

So, if you figure that of the region’s most world-renowned names—the five Premiers Crus named at the Bordeaux Wine Official Classification of 1855Château Latour produces about 216,000 bottles annually, Château Lafite Rothschild twice that; Château Margaux kicks out 150,000 bottles and Château Haut-Brion about the same, with the 1973 classified Château Mouton Rothschild producing 240,000 bottles per  year—in all, a little over a million bottles.  The other 55 châteaux named in the Grand Crus Classés, skating down the so-called quality ladder to Cinquièmes Crus, or Fifth Growths, may release another thirty million bottles, but that still leaves a whopping 970,000,000  bottles of Bordeaux to be accounted for.

No B.S. In Bordeaux Supérieur

Assume that about half come from the broad appellation simply called Bordeaux, and a quarter of these—broadcast across the entire parent region from Verdon-sur-Mer at the northwestern tip of the Médoc to Sainte-Foy, 80 miles to the east—go by the AOC Bordeaux Supérieur.

Typical vinescape, Bordeaux

Typical vinescape, Bordeaux

Covering both red and white wines made from classic Bordeaux varietals, there are legal restrictions that distinguish Supérieur from their proletarian—inférieur—brethren: The reds have a higher alcohol-by-volume, the whites a higher percentage of residual sugar.  Reds spend a minimum of one year in oak and are restricted to grapes from older vines.  As a result, they tend to be fuller-bodied and richer that simple Bordeaux, which sometimes—but not always—equates to a wine with more potential for cellaring.

planet logoAnd as such, they tend to carry higher price tags than straight-shooting Appellation Bordeaux Controlee, but in the grand scheme of this often over-priced region, not that much higher.  If the ‘sweet spot’ for a balanced, drinkable, identifiably ‘characteristic’ Bordelaise wine is around $25, the following gang of five, imported by Planet Bordeaux, are all under $15.

An excellent low-end introduction to the multifarious flavors and fragrances available in the wine capital of the world.

Tasting Notes:

Château Argadens, Bordeaux Supérieur, 2009, about $14: Now owned by Maison Sichel—Gironde-based winegrowers, winemakers and éleveurs—d’Argadens is the Sichel benchmark for the AOC, exploiting the clay-limestone soil to great advantage.  A concentration of crushed berries plays against cedar, earth, truffle and green tobacco.  Give it about an hour to open up.

couronneauChâteau Couronneau Cuvée Pierre de Cartier, Bordeaux Supérieur, 2009, about $14:  Fresh and fruit-focused with lots of smoky-sweet oak, spice and sandalwood beside the cassis and cherry.  The 15th century estate is now fully organic, certified by Ecocert.

Château de Lugagnac, Bordeaux Supérieur, about $13:  With a history dating back to the Hundred Years War between France and England (trivia buffs, it actually lasted 106 years, between 1337 to 1453), the Château is certainly shored up by history.  The most terroir driven wine in the bunch—owing, perhaps, to the iron-rich clay over chalk structure of the Lugagnac soils—the nose shows blackberry, cinnamon and Asian spice with blackberry liqueur echoed in the mouth along with an earthy, tannic finish.

Grapes at Tayet

Grapes at Tayet

Château Tayet Cuvée Prestige, Supérieur, 2009, about $11:   This property, situated at the mouth of the Médoc—home of Châteaux Potensac and  Preuillac—the wine is predominantly merlot, with the remainder made up of cabernet sauvignon.  It shows some nice depth—surprising for the price point—along with notes of mint, cassis, plum and caramel with some rather tight tannins.

Château Reyon, Bordeaux Blanc, 2011, about $13:  Light and mineral driven, likely due to the deep gravel in which the vines are grown, the wine doesn’t offer much on the nose, but is crisp and refreshing in the mouth; good acid to balance the lemon peel and grapefruit palate with a granite finish.

Posted in Bordeaux, FRANCE | Tagged , , | 3 Comments

Top Ten Holiday Wines For Under $10,000

The other day I read an interesting statement made by my colleague Robert Whitley of Whitley on Wine.

Clipboard burtonAnd, so we’re clear, by ‘colleague’ I mean ‘someone who writes about wine like me, but actually takes it seriously’.  Seriousity is an admirable trait that requires extensive knowledge of the subject and the ability to maintain a public face of decorum at tastings, winemaker dinners, competitions and speaking engagements.

Whitley actually does his homework, too, finding all sorts of cool value wines that you might have overlooked, then renders them real in graphic, poetic, gustatory tasting note terms; like Villa Maria Sauvignon Blanc from Marlborough (‘…aromas of ripe gooseberry and pungent grapefruit…’) and Royal Tokaji Furmint from Hungary (‘…nuances of brioche, honey, and wet stone complemented by fruit-driven aromas of citrus and green apple…’) 

The dude even looks serious—like Richard Burton, although ironically, sober.

8 ballMe, I tend to fake my way through the written part and get sloppy silly plastered during the public part; I research not wines, but distributors, because I need a steady supply of ‘review samples’, and generally, once a rep and/or associated winery actually reads what I write about what they’ve sent, said rep is either fired or pretends it was all a big misunderstanding.  That is likely because when I compile my ‘Tasting Notes’, I simply shake my Magic 8-Ball and use some variant of whatever comes up in the little window.

And as for looks?  I may not be worth a date with Liz Taylor, but I can give Whoopee Goldberg a run for her money.

BTW, I got my job through Affirmation Action.  Thank you, white people.

So again, when it comes to Robert Whitley, ‘colleague’ may be defined in the loosest terms possible since it contains the word ‘league’ and I am certainly not in his.

At all events, the statement that Whitley made that so inspired me was this:

‘I sense a trend. Seems everyone (including me) is writing about good value wines for the holidays.’

circus soakerWell, about that:  For all my amateurish, self-obsessed, ill-conceived columnizing, which tends to view the wine world not so much as a specimen beneath a microscope, but as the fat chick on the carnival midway sitting above the Super Soaker dunk tank, I have scrupulously avoided following trends.  Like, when critics started raving about Mendoza malbec, I was doing blogs on really cheap Argentinian vino de mesa made with criollo chica and Granadero Baigorria antifreeze.  I used to like muscat, but now that every gangsta-rapper wanna-be from Bed-Stuy to Oakland is slamming the shit for breakfast, I’m touting muskrat wine from Turkmenistan. And when the conversation turns to ‘trendy blendies’ like sauvignon blanc and grechetto, merlot and garnacha, gewurtz and pinot gris, I’m all about a Fred Sanford blend of chardonnay and Ripple to make me some chardonipple.

In fact, the more I think about it, the more impressed I become with my own iconoclastic worldview and think-on-my-feet, image-busting creativity.

Night Train ExpressIf you held my toes to the bunsen burner and forced me to tell you of my proudest accomplishment when I lived on the street, it would be convincing Night Train to release a Special Edition Night Train Single Vineyard Express Reserve, which I then got the Michigan Re-Education Foundation to subsidize as a way to transform homeless drug-addicted cretins into wage-earning employees of the wine industry.

Turkministani vintner Bürkmenabat Daşoguz at work in his winery.

Turkmenistani vintner Bürkmenabat Daşoguz at work in his winery.

And you know that top-shelf, high-end label ‘Pruno Località Liquoroso’ made with baker’s yeast and Harrod’s Premium Fruit Cocktail juice that everybody’s talking about?  Mine—conceived when I did a brief stint at Detroit House of Corrections.

In fact, when you get down to brass tacks, this particular brand has made me such a steaming heap of cash that I really don’t need to follow Whitley’s ‘trend’ anyway.

Screw my middle-class readers: You want to drink like some ghetto swill-sucking schmuck without two nickels to rub together, read Whitley—or whichever trend-junkie lines up with him.

'C'mon, bitches, where be the mos-ca-to??'

‘C’mon, bitches, where dat mos-ca-to??’

Me, I’ll make a holiday list for those of us with sufficient scoot to appreciate the real deal.

I will, however, do my best to describe these wines using flowery, detailed, overblown Whitleyan, Parkerish—even Karen MacNeilistic terminology since these are some of the greatest wines ever produced in the history of humanity, and as such, they deserve this sort of respectful treatment:  After all, It isn’t every day that you can afford a $10,000 bottle of wine.

I mean, I can, but you can’t.

Tasting Notes:

1)  Domaines Barons de Rothschild Chateau Lafite Rothschild, Pauillac, 1959, $9,386 (Available: Arvi’s Seaside Wine Shoppe, Switzerland):

Not bad.

label2)  Henri Jayer Richebourg Grand Cru, Cote de Nuits, 1987, $8,726 (Available: Fine & Rare Wines, London): 

Pretty good.

3)  Screaming Eagle Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa, 2007 (bottle signed by Thomas Jefferson), $7,835 (Available: Bubba’s Bottle & Basket, Yonkers):  

Okay.

4)  Château Lafite Rothschild, Pauillac, 2003, $6,950 (Available: Slurp ‘n’ Glurp, Chicago):

Cannot predict now.

5)  Château Petrus, Pomerol, 1995, $5,999 (Available: Wines ‘r’ Us, NJ):

Tastes like old grapes.

eschezaux6)  Chambertin, Grand Cru, Domaine A. Rousseau, 1962, $5,698 (Available: Vinum Petri, Germany):

Worth it?  Probably not.

7)  Echézeaux, Grand Cru, Domaine E. Rouget, 1985, $5,450 (Available: Weezer’s Wine Consigners, Inc., L.A.):

You may rely on it.

8)  Chateau Ausone, Saint-Emilion Grand Cru, 1945, $5285 (Available: Wine Robbers, NY):

Answer unclear—try again later.

9)  E. Guigal Côte-Rôtie La Mouline, Côte-Rôtie, 1978, $4825 (Available: I Wish Cotton Was A Monkey Wine & Spirits, San Francisco):

Meh.

10)  Egon Muller-Scharzhof Scharzhofberger Riesling Trockenbeerenauslese, Mosel, 1989, $3,800  (Available: Adolf and Eva’s Wine Bunker, Berlin):

Focus and ask again.

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‘the wine business’ In Blunderland Has Alice In Danderland

Ever been in a relationship with—or, worse case, been married to—someone who thrives on getting pissed off; to whom bile is lifeblood, huffiness heroin and acrimony the only emotion possible that can offer day-to-day, hour-by-hour equilibrium?

I’m talking about someone who wanders the earth like Diogenes, holding a lantern, looking not for an honest man, but for any scenario, any angle, any expedient however minor to succor the ravenous, mewling, insatiable demons of distemper within?

In other words, ever hung around with an anger addict?

I have, and I quake to be reminded of that mindset, but it was sort of hard to suppress those awful, corrosive memories while reading the vitriol spewed by readers of the drinks business—Europe’s leading booze trade publication—based on some moronic monochrome model that turned up adjacent to one of their recent features.

Alongside Top 50 Most Powerful Women In Wine, the drinks business published this absolutely bizarre clip-art-looking illustration:

original illustration

To me, it seems more inexplicable than offensive—as if the art director was a microcephalic time-traveler from Mad Men who suffered a full-on cerebral hemorrhage while smoking a fatty blunt.  I cannot imagine who was thinking what when on the drinks business editorial staff, because—blatant piggery aside—the graphic simply makes no logical sense as an accompaniment to a story about powerful wine women.  In fact, it represents the opposite since it depicts a non-powerful-looking woman incarcerated by an inverted wine glass.

Unless they were going for some sort of Orwellian allegory for how we allow our jobs to trap us—which they weren’t—I attributed it to an epic fuck-up in the editing room.

And, brothers and sisters, have I got some of those stories for a long winter’s night.

Shake a Head, Yes.  But, Shake a Fist…?

Apparently, the rest of the wine world disagrees.  It was blood they wanted, and blood they demanded, and blood they got so bloody quickly that within hours of the story going live, with volumes of venom and scads of sarcasm beginning to blast the Comments section like Katerina and Sandy* combined, the editors folded.

*Named for Sandy Koufax, of course: A man.

Here’s but a sampling of the snivels:

…Wow. Worst Visual Ever…

…Couldn’t get past your image of a pole dancer provocatively posing in heels to want to finish reading the article….

…As a woman that has been in the wine business for over 15 years, and often writes about the sensuality of wine and the way it can seduce you, that image is insulting as hell….

…trashy, insulting, and totally inappropriate…

And so on.

Within a short span, the publication got the message and pulled the illustration and replaced it with this mini-skirted silhouette, who, even without a wine glass or stiletto heels, is still absurd, but at least it doesn’t look like Daryl Hannah at The Blue Iguana:

second illustration

Yet, here are a few of the retorts after the image of the glass lass was dropped:

…you swapped out 1 offensive image for another…

…The second picture is just as big of a problem as the first…

…Your replacement image shows how truly clueless, old-fashioned and misogynistic you are at TBD…

So, the editors of the drinks business sighed once more and acquiesced, replacing the skirt woman with a bunch of ripe, delicious-looking gamay grapes—a benign enough icon for any viniculture article ever:

Gamay-Grapes

That would have to calm stormy seas, right?

Guess again.

Janice Cable writes:

…Now that the illustration has been replaced with a gender-neutral bunch of grapes, I can just be outraged at the strange, myopic, ahistoric introduction…

‘Gender-neutral’ is a weird way to view gamay, but…

Ahistoric?

New one on me, Janice, but apparently it is a real word, and means ‘without regard to history’.

Ahem?

The offending intro was:

‘The fact that there are enough powerful women working in wine to warrant a top 50 is a sign of how far the industry has come in a short space of time.’

This is ahistoric how exactly?  To me—correct or incorrect as the premise itself may be—by measuring the quickness with which the wine industry has begun to seek talent of both men and women alike, it sounds like they are looking history square in the gender-neutral kisser.

Sort of a-ahistoric, you might say.

And not for nothing, Janice—you yourself sound like a bit of an a-hole.

And Now: The Ne Plus Ultra of Hypocrisy

But, it must be confessed, my absolute favorite comment came from somebody named Marlene Rossman—who, for some cryptic reason hasn’t changed her name to ‘Rosswoman’:

‘…drinks business is a UK publication. They are still in the dark ages when it comes to women’.

Come again?  Which UK are you referring to, Marlene?  The one whose monarch is a woman, whose Stock Exchange CEO is a woman and whose longest-serving Prime Minister in the 20th Century was a woman?

Anyway, don’t you feel a bit strange dissing an entire nation with your smug, silly, superiority-complex ranting?  I mean, if for no other reason than half of the folks you just insulted are women?

Why are these people so goddamned angry??

Go Ask Alice

You just knew she’d weigh in, didn’t you?  Would have to.  And why not?  As one of the most powerful women in wine, who will obviously show up in one of the drinks business segments (only #41 – 50 were listed with the stripper/skirt/grape edition —stay tuned), she should have as much—nay more—room to spout her righteous illustration indignation as Janice the Cablewoman.

Clipboard carrot topAlice Feiring, of course, formerly Time Magazine wine/travel writer, Louis Roederer’s ‘Online Wine Writer of the Year, 2011’, renowned Robert Parker Jr. hater and award-winning author of several wine books including ‘Ginger on the Gironde’, which bears the following back-cover endorsement from Carrot Top:

‘If people with red hair read only one book about Bordeaux this year, let it be ‘Ginger on the Gironde’.

Feiring is also the voice behind ‘The Feiring Line’, that excruciatingly cutesy-titled wine manifesto in which she pointedly expresses uncompromising opinions about the same sort of titanic, tectonic topics covered by yours truly, with one important difference: People actually read her stuff.

And, as a result of that, any time I dare take the con to a Feiring pro or a pro to a Feiring con, I am inevitably mocked by friends, colleagues, offspring and that persistent peckerheaded poozle ValveKeeper of Must, who say:

‘You’re just jealous’.

Which is true, mea culpa.  Mea maxima culpa.  ‘Fess up: I’ve always wanted hair that looks like steel wool dipped in puréed flamingo.

In any case, that’s really sort of childish of me, and I do intend to keep on topic.

the drinks business Throws Women Under The Bus’

The above was the title of Alice Feiring’s take on the whole skank-under-glass controversy, and as always, I expected—beside the prerequisite ire—a hard-hitting, art-director-spanking, intellectually stimulating promulgation of the publication’s sins along with the musings of a double-x chromosomer and a brief prospectus of the Daimler-Hyundai Truck & Bus Corporation.

Well, I got the ire part right—Feiring, apparently, feels near pity for the drinks business’s benighted editorial board, wondering if they are owned by Rupert Murdoch.  She rightly points that women in the wine industry are indispensible to the product’s manufacture, sales and marketing.

On the other hand, I thought that’s what the article was all about.

But, no biggie, because that’s not even the weird part.  The weird part is that Feiring begins her column with the following statement:

‘”Do you ever have problems in the field, because you’re a woman?” So goes the oft asked question. After all, even if there are young men involved, there is an old boy network at the top. And so, I instead of telling them the truth I say, no, I get a hard time because I’m short.

I’ve always felt a little guilty about not being totally honest…’

‘Not being totally honest’?

A bit of a euphemism, that…  Still, folks wiser than I will have to determine when saying ‘no’ when the answer is ‘yes’ passes into the realm of ‘complete bullshit’.

But why?  What’s so hard about saying, ‘Yeah, but somehow, we muddle through…’?

Chromosome_Y.svgI confess to a Y chromosome, so obviously I don’t understand much of the subtle side of the prejudice that women in the industry may have dealt with over the decades.  Although, having taken my sommelier training from Madeline Triffon MS, I can say that a consideration of her gender never once occurred to me, then or now.  Only her palate.

But, I can also say with equal candor that if I was a woman experiencing bias from an ‘old boy network’ (let’s name names, shall we?), I would look to people like Alice Feiring to stand up and scream from rooftops until the situation changed—not to lie about its very existence, make excuses, then joke about it.

And if that rooftop screaming didn’t happen?  I guarantee you that I would consider it Alice Feiring—not a publication that’s willing to print a multi-installment feature on powerful women in the wine industry—that was throwing me under the bus.

I make no correlations here, but I will point out that The Feiring Line’s mission statement is:

‘I’m hunting the Leon Trotskys, the Philip Roths, the Chaucers and the Edith Whartons of the wine world’.

A list, one notes, that is three-quarters male, with the lone woman bringing up the rear.  Hope there is room under that bus for Toni Morrison, Pearl S. Buck, Charlotte Brontë, Joyce Carol Oates, Doris Lessing, Lillian Hellman, Virginia Woolf, Katherine Anne Porter…

Et cetera.

Does That Mean That the drinks business Gets a Pass?

Yeah, kinda.  They screwed up, owned up and patched up.  As mortals, we can do no more.  Time will tell if there were lessons learned—and if so, I feel bad for that legion of tantrumheads who will have to sniff out their misogyny—or rumors of misogyny—elsewhere.

And, does that mean that I commiserate with the drinks business? 

It does.

Billie-Buckwheat-ThomasLike, if I were to publish a list entitled 50 Most Influential African Americans Of All Time, I would expect a bit of gratitude and, the very least, respect from folks like Oprah Winfrey, Condoleezza Rice and that actor with the liver spots all over his face.  I expressly would not expect excoriation from them—or the hoi polloi—simply because I chose to accompany the column with a picture of Buckwheat.

 

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‘CR20’ And Ruscalleda’s Rocking Restaurante

Every decade or so, a new culinary caprice climbs aboard the buzzword B&O, and—city by city—restaurants open up to cash in on pay homage to the ‘trend’.

Crusted pork on the bone with mashed potatoes and broccolini

Crusted pork on the bone with mashed potatoes and broccolini

Here in Detroit over the past thirty years or so, there was ‘nouvelle cuisine’, there were ‘trattorias’, there were ‘bistros’, there was upscale down-home white tablecloth soul food…

And these days, the yucky sounding ‘molecular gastronomy’ rears its repulsive head.

Of course, such joints generally have short shelf lives, and if you can strike while the kettle is hot, attract attention, good reviews and a crowd—and are not deluded to think it will last beyond the next flavor-of-the-month—you can sell up to some deluded investor and move on.

It’s a lot like guerilla warfare.

Fusion Vs. Confusion

Tree People fusion: Grubs and bark

Tree People fusion: Grubs and bark

When I was a sommelier, ‘fusion’ cuisine was the rage, and is probably the most singular example of the absurdity of taking food fashion too seriously, because every culinary style on earth short of that of the Papua Tree People of Southwest New Guinea has some element of fusion to it.  Countless Italian sauces, for example, rely on the tomato, which was native to Mesoamerica and didn’t even hit Europe until the 16th Century.  Likewise cocoa; but I suppose if your menu listed chocolate mousse torte as ‘Franco-Mex’, you’d have some explaining to do.

Chinois on Main

Chinois on Main

Of course, under correct and talented management, some places continue to make fusion cuisine sort of interesting.  Wolfgang Puck’s Chinois on Main, blending Chinese and French styles and cooked by an Austrian, is alive and well after thirty years.  Hollywood’s Asia de Cuba speaks for itself, even though dishes like Havana-Style Pad Thai say ‘huh?’ more than anything else.

Then There Is The Real Deal

Travel fanatics, if you have never been there, drop what you’re doing and put Catalonia on the bucket list.  This intense community, encompassing the Spanish provinces of Barcelona, Taragonna, Llieda and Girona, is itself, the very essence of cultural fusion.  Its own nationality, the population is roughly split between speakers of Catalan and Spanish, and its culinary tradition blends styles from Spain, Valencia and France, using ingredients from the mountains as readily as those from the sea.

Carme Ruscalleda in her native habitat.

Carme Ruscalleda in her native habitat.

Here, on the coast between Canet de Mar and Calella, a short drive from Barcelona, is the remarkable Michelin 3-Star restaurant of Carme Ruscalleda, one of the most celebrated chefs in Spain.  Restrained, immaculate and known for flawless service, Restaurant Sant Pau fuses Catalan and Japanese culinary traditions while relying on local fish and flesh, with seasonal fruits and vegetables at the core of most dishes.

Offering such well-conceived, intriguing items as Lobster with Black-Olive Froth, Courgette Flower with Yellow Tempura, Maresme King Prawns, Cherries and Chopped Cucumber and an interactive, now-legendary dessert called ‘Moon’ made with coconut and chocolate ganache laced with fresh shiso, the cuisine is equally delicious and intellectual.  And guaranteed?  Nothing ‘Havana-Style’.

Sant Pau

Sant Pau

Having begun life as a basic Catalan deli, the evolution of Sant Pau to one of the most talked-about restaurants in Europe has taken twenty years.  And, in commemoration of that milestone, Carme Ruscalleda has released CR20—a sparkling Cava, which by its nature is a fusion in its own right.  A blend of macabeau, xarel-lo, parellada and chardonnay (only approved as a Cava component in 1986), her sommelier Joan Lluis Gomez—without attempting to suck up to the boss, obviously—describes it like this:

‘A brilliant Cava, like her ideas.  Clean and transparent as her honest character; with a fine and constant bubble, like her working philosophy.’

Now, there’s a nose browner than Obama’s.

L.: Always full.  R.:  Always dull.

L.: Always full. R.: Always dull.

But, in truth, CR20 is a sensational wine, no question, but I am equally impressed by the apparent humility that Chef shows in using her initials instead of her name on the label.  I mean, seriously: Can you imagine weighty waddler Paul Prudhomme releasing ‘PP Magic Seasoning Blends’?  Or that semi-gorked, notch-raising buffoon Emeril Lagasse hawking ‘EL All-Clad Cookware’? 

As if.

These guys should take a lesson from true talent—fusion femme-fatale Carme Ruscalleda—a chef with CR20/20 vision.

Tasting Notes:

bottleCR20 Extra Brut Gran Reserva, Penedès, 2008, around $30:  It may be psychosomatic, but I swear this wine manages to incorporate a multitude of flavors from Barcelona bakeries and fruit stands:  Yeasty upfront pan de leche, crisp green apples, dried pear, white peach and melon pierced by bubbles méthode champenoise—technology required to wear the Cava DO label.  Something is up with the price, though—and if you are interested in that sort of thing, time to buy is now.  According to winesearcher.com, since 2009, the cost of a bottle has dropped from $60 to it’s current retail of $30.

Incidentally, the term Cava—Spanish for cave—came about as a result of legal conflicts with France over the use of champán, pissing everybody off on both sides of the courtroom.

Nowadays, with clear improvements in Cava*, as far as the Spanish are concerned?  ‘Champagne in Spain goes mainly down the drain’.

* About 95% of Cava comes from Catalonia.

*

Restaurant Sant Pau

Calle Nou, 10, 08395 San Pol de Mar, Spain

+34 937600662 

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