Category Archives: FRANCE

Burgundy, 2014: Terroir vs. Tempests

When I asked a prominent Burgundian vigneron at what point during a growing season a winemaker knows for sure that the vintage will be great, she replied:  “On the day of harvest.” To me, that single upchuck of cold, hard … Continue reading

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The Cult of Brumont: Alchemy in a Glass

I met Alain Brumont at The Stand, over a nice dinner arranged by local wine merchant Elie Boudt, and when I gripped the knotted, platter-sized hand of Brumont in greeting, I was struck with an overwhelming moment of déjà vu. It … Continue reading

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Woman-ness in Wine

Throughout my quarter century of writing about wine I’ve tried to avoid controversial topics, because frankly, who needs the grief? Well, I suppose that’s not strictly true.  In fact, it’s not even vaguely true.  In my twenty-five years of wine … Continue reading

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‘Old’ is Merely a State of Vine

I just got back from a month in Oldvinelandia, and therefore I know more about old vine wines than anybody else in the contiguous solar system. What do I know about old vines?  For starters, I know there’s no such … Continue reading

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I Am a Master of Bordeaux, 2016

I may never be able to tack that coveted MW onto my name; I may never wear an MS badge in my lapel and I may never be a Certified Specialist of Wine (which I would have to spell out … Continue reading

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Château de Maltroye and Why I Don’t Write Wine Books Like Hugh Johnson

Someone whose palate I respect poured a wine saying, “This is what California Chardonnay wants to be when it grows up.” Behind such a statement I can find many points with which to agree, but in general, although the idea … Continue reading

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Thursdays With Maury

Many years ago I pledged a troth never to write a Thanksgiving wine column unless one of two things happened:  Either I thought of a really bad pun or I found a really good wine. Merveille des merveilles, this year … Continue reading

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