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Category Archives: FRANCE
There’s a Cure for the Saumur Wine Blues
…And I’ll get to it at the end. In the meantime, no spoilers. No cheating. No peeking, no snooping, no shaking the box beneath the Christmas tree under penalty of a bitch-slap. I have had a pathological aversion to spoilers ever since … Continue reading
Posted in Cabernet Franc, FRANCE, Loire
Tagged cabernet franc, Chris Kassel, Saumur-Champigny, Thierry Germain
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Left Bank-A-Palooza 2017
At the periphery of every wine experience, Bordeaux looms. In a pinch (and a stellar vintage) other wine regions may be considered Bordeaux’s equal, but none are superior. Like the specter of a master—like Michelangelo hovering above an art class or … Continue reading
Posted in Bordeaux
Tagged Bouscaut, Camensac, Chasse-Spleen, Durfort-Vivens, Left Bank Bordeaux, Phelan-Segur
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Ups and Downs in the Côte d’Or
On that subject, a book could be composed—a column couldn’t do the subject justice. But this story is purely territorial—the tale of two tipples, identical in price and weight; one from the extreme northern nose of the Côte d’Or, the … Continue reading
A Must Muscadet
‘What can you say ‘bout Muscadet that’s not about lemons and briny spray?’ Like me, you probably have an image of Muscadet that begins on a scale of steely simplicity and works down to utter vinous neutrality. The region, on … Continue reading
Posted in FRANCE
Tagged Chris Kassel, melon de bourgogne, Michel Brégeon, Muscadet, Nantes
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A Tale of Two Carignans
Jon Bonné is so enamored with the letter ‘e’ that he borrows a deformed one from a different language just in case we assume the one in his last name is silent. So, it’s no surprise that he spells ‘Carignan’ … Continue reading
The Cult of Brumont: Alchemy in a Glass
I met Alain Brumont at The Stand, over a nice dinner arranged by local wine merchant Elie Boudt, and when I gripped the knotted, platter-sized hand of Brumont in greeting, I was struck with an overwhelming moment of déjà vu. It … Continue reading
Posted in Gascony, Madiran
Tagged Alain Brumont, Chateau Montus, Chef Paul Grosz, Génération Madiran, Madiran, tannat
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Woman-ness in Wine
Throughout my quarter century of writing about wine I’ve tried to avoid controversial topics, because frankly, who needs the grief? Well, I suppose that’s not strictly true. In fact, it’s not even vaguely true. In my twenty-five years of wine … Continue reading
‘Old’ is Merely a State of Vine
I just got back from a month in Oldvinelandia, and therefore I know more about old vine wines than anybody else in the contiguous solar system. What do I know about old vines? For starters, I know there’s no such … Continue reading
I Am a Master of Bordeaux, 2016
I may never be able to tack that coveted MW onto my name; I may never wear an MS badge in my lapel and I may never be a Certified Specialist of Wine (which I would have to spell out … Continue reading