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Category Archives: BY VARIETAL
Ready To Read Another Dull ‘En Primeur’ Column? Good, Because I’m Not Ready To Write One
American wine people love to pronounce French words—especially those that they actually can pronounce. That’s why they’re always talking about lieu-dit, cépage and egrappage when they could be talking about ‘vineyard’, ‘kind of grape’ and ‘yanking the friggin’ stems off’. … Continue reading
A Long Languid Lope Down The Loire
Part I: How White is My Valley? The wild Loire is the longest river in France, and its associated winemaking ward covers a whoppin’ 185,000 acres. Originating in the deep south—virtually in the Rhône appellation—it scrambles up through Orléans (Jeanne … Continue reading
Posted in Loire, Melon de Bourgogne, Sauvignon Blanc
Tagged Chinon, Loire wines, melon de bourgogne, Muscadet, Nicolas Joly, sauvignon blanc, Vouvray, wines of Loire
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Chianti Chronology: Pouri Some Mori Antinori
As defined by the Dalmasso Commission in 1932, the seven zones of Chianti have enjoyed more ups-and-downs among the fickle American public than Newt Gingrich—although unlike Newt, the Touchstone of Tuscany actually has something of value to offer. First gaining … Continue reading
Posted in Chianti, ITALY, Sangiovese
Tagged Badia a Passignano, Chianti Classico, Italian wine, Marchese Antinori, Peppoli, sangiovese
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Brown-Nosing in Paso Robles: Red Zeppelin Winery
Of my forty-three thousand Facebook friends, I know approximately four of them personally—the rest I solicited over the years so that I could make smarmy rejoinders to their heartfelt postings in the firm belief that I would become the Oscar … Continue reading
Posted in CALIFORNIA, Central Coast, Grenache, Syrah/Shiraz
Tagged Black Zeppelin, Jory Vineyards, Red Zeppelin, Stillman Brown, White Zeppelin
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Velvety ‘Veleta’: A Big Cheese In Tiny Contraviesa-Alpujarra
Q.: What does Veleta have in common with Velveeta? A.: Neither are made out of cheese. * Okay, now that the inevitable and idiotic processed cheese-food reference has been laid to rest, I turn my focus toward a series of … Continue reading
Posted in SPAIN, Tempraillo, Uncategorized
Tagged Juan and Nola Palomar, tempranillo, Veleta wine, vijiriega
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Stryker Sonoma Petit Verdot: The Golden Ticket
My buddy Roger Bonga makes a sinfully serious chocolate wine out in Grand Rapids; Oregon’s Shallon Winery makes ‘a rich chocolate and orange whey* wine’; and of course, there’s that inexplicably weird and awful Dutch mess called Chocovine, a blend … Continue reading
Hestan Vineyards: Picture Perfect Picks From The Sultan of Saucepans
When a well-heeled businessman decides to open a winery—and plenty do—we can but hope that they possess at least one of the Big Three: A sense of taste, a love of the land or winemaking savvy. If somebody around the … Continue reading
Posted in Cab/Merlot, CALIFORNIA, Chardonnay, Napa
Tagged harp, Helen Cheng, Hestan Vineyards. Rivers Brown, San Francisco Bay, Stanley Cheng, Stephanie Cheng
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Certainly Maceration Is Normal For Boys, Ben. But…
…not during Algebra. Now, wash your hands and finish your polynomials. Yesterday I had my wine tasting acumen publically mocked by Ben Fawcett because I dared to suggest that I am a fan of Beaujolais—or rather, because I like the … Continue reading
Iberian Intoxicants for New Year’s Day (And Beyond)
What’s the with-it Spaniard imbibing on this frosty January Sunday? Something from Torres, no doubt. Founded in 1870 by Jaime Torres, the family now controls the largest winery in Spain along with the most extensive vineyards in Penedès and can … Continue reading
Posted in Grenache, Penedès, Priorat, SPAIN
Tagged Penedes, Priorat, Torres Celeste, Torres Salmos
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Vintage 2008: Donati Delivers A Digest of Doozies
It has been said (by Italians mostly) that there are only two kinds of people in the world: Italians and people who wish they were Italian. Whether or not you accept this, the fact is, in terms of cool, Italians … Continue reading
Posted in Cab/Merlot, Paicines
Tagged Central Coast, Donati Family Vineyard, Paicines AVA, Ron Donati, San Benito AVA
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