Category Archives: FRANCE

Man The Lifeboats: Women, Children And Premium Champagne First

Martin Mull, back me up on this one: For some reason, there are a lot of homoerotic terms associated with being a seaman.  Poop deck, sperm whale, cockswain, hanging around the buoys, ‘All hands on dick deck’. Going down on … Continue reading

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Monbazillac: Wine That Even Sugarplum Fairies Can Afford

All the gnarling and kvetching over the California foie gras ban has an upside: It has been driving generic and often nostalgic stories about this iconic pâté; foie fans are, apparently, legion, loyal and pissed-off vocal. It seems that John … Continue reading

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Ready To Read Another Dull ‘En Primeur’ Column? Good, Because I’m Not Ready To Write One

American wine people love to pronounce French words—especially those that they actually can pronounce. That’s why they’re always talking about lieu-dit, cépage and egrappage when they could be talking about ‘vineyard’, ‘kind of grape’ and ‘yanking the friggin’ stems off’. … Continue reading

Posted in Bordeaux, Cab/Merlot, Cabernet Franc, FRANCE, Malbec, Merlot, Petit Verdot, Sauvignon Blanc | Tagged , , , , , | 12 Comments

A Long Languid Lope Down The Loire

Part I:  How White is My Valley? The wild Loire is the longest river in France, and its associated winemaking  ward covers a whoppin’ 185,000 acres.  Originating in the deep south—virtually in the Rhône appellation—it scrambles up through Orléans (Jeanne … Continue reading

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Champagne-Loving Brit Twit Charged With Felony Dipshittery

For the most part, I consider myself something of a literary whiz kid—far too quick-witted, imaginative, profound and enlightened to comment on silly, wine-related ‘news stories’ that have little to do with my mission of advancing  enological education among serious … Continue reading

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What’s So Great About France, Vintage 2009?

In the first place, ‘vintage year’ is whatever the opposite of oxymoronic is, since technically, every year is a vintage year. In Oporto, however, certain vintages may be ‘declared’—meaning that, in the spring of the second year following the harvest, … Continue reading

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Certainly Maceration Is Normal For Boys, Ben. But…

…not during Algebra.  Now, wash your hands and finish your polynomials. Yesterday I had my wine tasting acumen publically mocked by Ben Fawcett because I dared to suggest that I am a fan of Beaujolais—or rather, because  I like the … Continue reading

Posted in Beaujolais, FRANCE, Gamay | Tagged , , | 12 Comments

Tits For Taittinger: S.A.G, Not Saggy

As a connotation, as a concept and as a cliché, Champagne is a titillating tipple, entangled in seduction, raveled in sex and wrung out into seven-ounce flutes as a morning-after testimonial.  Therefore, when I developed an instantaneous crush on Champagne … Continue reading

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Only 98 Photoshopping Days Left Until The Bordeaux en primeur

“I’m on a seafood diet.  I see food and I throw up.” – Runway model Filippa Hamilton-Palmstierna A pair of recent headlines—one excoriating Ralph Lauren for photoshopping cover-girl Filippa Hamilton-Palmstierna to resemble Bobby Sands during Extreme Unction and another excoriating … Continue reading

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Bordeaux Is Selling Out—Or At Least, It’s On The Market

‘Under-the-radar wine estate for sale, Saint-Caprais-de-Bordeaux, château-on-steroids, 20 hectares of vines that are firing on all cylinders.  Priced to sell, this turn-key opportunity is a win-win.’ In the business world, you call such a find ‘low-hanging fruit’ and then, you … Continue reading

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