I know this guy named Delicato, and he’s every bit of that—a soft-spoken type of dude who wouldn’t swat a fruit fly.
The name ‘Indelicato’ strikes me as a bit more, well, twisted.
Perhaps that’s the reason for the ‘Twisted’ tag attached to Chris and Jay Indelicato’s recently released roster of low-end, easy-drinking wines produced by DFV Wines of Manteca (Spanish for ‘lard’), California. Wine Enthusiast’s 2007 ‘Winery of the Year’, DFV was founded in 1924 by Chris and Jay’s grandfather, Gasparé Indelicato. It has for eighty-five years been a solid producer of reasonably priced wines, many of which end up as shelf stockers at your local Piggly Wiggly. This is not a dis by any means—Lord knows, Piggly Wigglers need to drink and Central Valley is Tom Joad country, primarily interested in Thompson seedless grapes, so any winemaker not growing french friggin colombard to make generic chablis by the barge-load must be commended for focusing on a better class of vinifera.
Back To Twisted
As the genuine story goes, the name refers to the label’s first release in 2007 of old vine zinfandel, which as a biological specimen is indeed gnarled and knurled and deformed and twisted.
I buy into that. Still, to me ‘twisted’ conjures up images of tacky Ashley Judd in that overcooked 2004 potboiler, or Keith ‘Don’t Pronounce It Like It’s Perspiration’ Sweat, or dystonia, the neurological disorder that turns peoples’ limbs into pretzels.
Or even Dee Snyder.
But wine? Not so much.
And anyway, in the end, Twisted is anything but twisted. It’s predicable value wine: loopy and spritzy with a splashy label and no pretentions to become anything else. Nothing for the cellar, unless you plan to barbecue down there with your buddies tonight. Retailing for under eight dollars, Twisted marketing shtick insists that the brand was ‘born out of a desire to challenge the norm’ then presents a portfolio of chardonnay, pinot grigio merlot and cabernet sauvignon—probably the least normality-challenging line-up on the planet.
Are they playing with our minds over there in Manteca?
If so, that’s a bit twisted, sister.
Twisted Pinot Grigio, 2009: Not the least bit indelicate: Lightly effervescent, lightly touched gardenia and jasmine, some pear, melon, lemon blossom and perhaps a bit of ginger.
Twisted Chardonnay, 2009: Crisp and lightweight, with a mix of yellow and green apple, melon and light toast notes along with some tropical flavors; mango and pineapple especially.
Twisted Merlot, 2009: Round, but slightly bitter; soft, with cherry, cocoa and ripe pepper.
Twisted Old Vine Zinfandel, 2010: Juicy with brambleberry jam; nicely layered with damson plum, spice, and licorice.
Twisted Cabernet Sauvignon, 2009: Lack real cab character, it’s nonetheless a rather easy-drinking wine with black cherry, and a little oak parch on the tongue.