Category Archives: ITALY

O Verdicchio, Verdicchio! Wherefore Art Thou?

The other day I wrote about a reputation-ravaged red (Lambrusco) and today I shift gears to confront an equally marginalized Italian white: Verdicchio. The innocuous little grape from innocuous little Marche was content to coast along on its laurels—as threadbare … Continue reading

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Lambrusco Revisited: Don’t Say The ‘R’ Word

I promised my favorite hootch hawker that I wouldn’t use the ‘R’ word in discussing his Lambrusco.  He insists—rightly—that the quintessential ‘70s Italian wine brand should remain, like their stupid slogan, on ice. Under the auspices of Banfi Vintners, said … Continue reading

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Primitivo: A Gentle Giant

Having lived through the zinfandel vetting process, I can say unequivocally that I like some of the a.k.a.’s better than others, and maybe primitivo best of all. Back in primitive times—that is to say, prior to the advent of genetic … Continue reading

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Cure For The Summertime Blues? Whites!

I reserve a sort of parallel pity for people professing, ‘ I only drink red wine,’ as I do for those picky pisshaps who propound, ‘I only date Nordic meconologists with silicone hooters and poodles named ‘Pummy Paw-Paws.’ Yoda reminds … Continue reading

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What Wines Not To Serve For Columbus Day

Columbus Day is, of course, the annual goombah gala which has nothing really to do with Christopher Columbus and everything really to do with marching down Fifth Avenue surrounded by bands, floats and contingents while bragging about how goddamned happy … Continue reading

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Drew Barrymore Wants To Have My Children

Today, God is good and the world is as sweet as the balm from a callow jasmine flower. Today, I shall count no more my wasted tears nor fret time’s relentless plough.  Today, I am young as the vernal violets … Continue reading

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Chianti Chronology: Pouri Some Mori Antinori

As defined by the Dalmasso Commission in 1932, the seven zones of Chianti have enjoyed more ups-and-downs among the fickle American public than Newt Gingrich—although unlike Newt, the Touchstone of Tuscany actually has something of value to offer. First gaining … Continue reading

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