Category Archives: Burgundy

Bourgogne Passetoutgrain: Gamey Gamay

Pinot Noir doesn’t need my stamp-of-approval of course, but Gamay is a groovy grape that occasionally wears a stamp-of-ignominy because of Beaujolais Nouveau—which I also like—and which, in any case, is as absurd as dissing Zinfandel because of Sutter Home. … Continue reading

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L’Enfant Jésus: Good to the Beaune

Everything about Burgundy is eternal; nothing about Burgundy is predictable. Except for one thing: The Little Drummer Boy could not have afforded L’Enfant Jésus. When I was a fledgling fan of French phantasmagora, I used to use the mnemonic Beaune—pronouced … Continue reading

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Château Palmer: Margaux Your Own Way

If you find the Bordeaux Classification of 1855 irrelevant, confusing, frustrating or all the above, rest assured: You are in good company. The snit of owner Baron Philippe de Rothschild over Mouton’s second-rate status led to decades of lobbying, resulting in … Continue reading

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Merry Meursault And A Châteauneuf Christmas

Christmas is for the young; so it was with perfect propriety that I sat with eternally young wine merchant Elie Boudt over a couple of French classics as re-interpreted by a new generation of winemaker. The techniques employed were not an … Continue reading

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Bret Wine Never Tasted So Fine

Can you guess why Mel Practice opted out of a career in medicine? Of course you can.  Same reason that the Scheister Brothers don’t have a law firm or why Sam ‘n’ Ella don’t open a sushi bar. So, when … Continue reading

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Man To Man, The Best Sparkling Wine For Valentine’s Day?

Biagio Cru & Estate Wines, a vegan-friendly wine distributor based in  Roslyn Heights, NY, has announced the release of Égalité—the first wine ever created to support equal rights for words whose first and last letters both contain an accent aigu. … Continue reading

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What’s So Great About France, Vintage 2009?

In the first place, ‘vintage year’ is whatever the opposite of oxymoronic is, since technically, every year is a vintage year. In Oporto, however, certain vintages may be ‘declared’—meaning that, in the spring of the second year following the harvest, … Continue reading

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